What we covered

1. 01Chemical vs Physical Exfoliation
2. 02Understanding the Acids
3. 03The Peeling Gel Phenomenon
4. 04How Often to Exfoliate
5. 05Signs You Are Over-Exfoliating

Signs You Are Over-Exfoliating

Tightness, stinging when applying products that did not previously sting, increased redness, shiny or "glassy" looking skin (not in a good way), and sudden sensitivity to products you have used for months. If you notice any of these, stop all exfoliation immediately and focus on barrier repair for at least two weeks.

How Often to Exfoliate

For chemical exfoliants, start with once or twice per week and increase only if your skin tolerates it well. Most people should not exceed three times per week. Over-exfoliation is one of the most common skincare mistakes — it strips the barrier, causes sensitivity, and paradoxically makes skin look worse.

Peeling gels can be used slightly more frequently — two to three times per week — because the mechanical action is gentler than acids. But even here, less is more. Your skin needs time to regenerate between exfoliation sessions.

The Peeling Gel Phenomenon

Korean peeling gels deserve special mention. These products contain cellulose that rolls up into small balls when you massage it on your skin, physically carrying dead skin cells with it. The satisfying visible "peeling" makes them feel extremely effective, and they are — but gently. The Isntree Green Barley Peeling Gel is an excellent example, using natural cellulose alongside soothing green barley extract.

If you have sensitive skin or find acid exfoliants too intense, peeling gels are your best entry point. They provide visible, immediate results without the irritation risk or sun sensitivity increase of chemical exfoliation.

PHA (Polyhydroxy Acid) — Gluconolactone and lactobionic acid. These are the gentlest of the three, with larger molecular structures that penetrate more slowly. Best for sensitive skin that cannot tolerate AHA or BHA.

Understanding the Acids

AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) — Glycolic acid and lactic acid are the most common. These are water-soluble and work on the skin surface. Best for dry skin, fine lines, and dull complexion. They increase sun sensitivity, so morning SPF is essential.

BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid) — Salicylic acid is the star here. It is oil-soluble, meaning it can penetrate into pores and clear out sebum and debris. Best for oily, acne-prone skin with blackheads and congestion.

Chemical vs Physical Exfoliation

Exfoliation removes dead skin cells from the surface of your skin, revealing fresher, smoother skin beneath. There are two approaches: chemical exfoliation uses acids to dissolve the bonds between dead cells, and physical exfoliation uses friction to manually remove them.

Korean skincare heavily favours chemical exfoliation. Harsh scrubs with walnut shell fragments or microbeads (now banned in the UK) create micro-tears in the skin and cause more damage than good. Chemical exfoliants work evenly, can penetrate pores, and the intensity is controllable through concentration and contact time.