What we covered

1. 01What Are Peptides?
2. 02Types of Peptides in Skincare
3. 03Signal Peptides
4. 04Carrier Peptides
5. 05Neurotransmitter-Inhibiting Peptides
6. 06Why Peptides Suit Everyone
7. 07The Korean Products
8. 08Medicube Red Lacto Collagen Ampoule

How to Layer Peptides

Apply peptide products after toner and essence, before heavier moisturisers. Peptides are water-soluble and work best on freshly hydrated skin. They can be layered with most other active ingredients — niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, centella, and vitamin C all complement peptide activity.

The one caution is with direct acid products (AHA, BHA, glycolic acid). Very low pH environments can break down peptide bonds, reducing their efficacy. If you use acid exfoliants, apply them on separate nights or wait at least 20 minutes between your acid product and your peptide product.

The Korean Products

Medicube Red Lacto Collagen Ampoule The most sophisticated formulation on this list. It combines collagen peptides with lactobacillus ferment, addressing both structural support and skin barrier health. The probiotic component helps the skin better utilise the peptides. Use as an evening treatment serum, three to four nights per week.

COSRX Advanced Snail Peptide Eye Cream A targeted peptide product for the delicate eye area. The combination of palmitoyl pentapeptide with snail mucin provides both collagen stimulation and hydration. The light texture is appropriate for the thin skin around the eyes without causing milia.

Mizon Collagen Power Firming Cream An affordable daily moisturiser that incorporates marine collagen peptides alongside adenosine — a natural compound that stimulates fibroblast activity. The cream texture provides nourishment for dry and mature skin while delivering peptide benefits with every application.

Why Peptides Suit Everyone

Retinoids are the gold standard for anti-ageing but come with irritation, sun sensitivity, and pregnancy restrictions. Peptides offer a gentler alternative with no significant side effects. They work for every skin type, can be used morning and evening, do not increase sun sensitivity, and are safe during pregnancy.

This makes peptides ideal for people who cannot tolerate retinoids, want to supplement their retinoid routine, or are looking for anti-ageing benefits without any of the typical retinoid downsides.

Types of Peptides in Skincare

Signal Peptides These send messages to fibroblasts (collagen-producing cells) to increase production. Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl) is the most researched, with studies showing it can stimulate collagen synthesis comparably to retinol without the irritation.

Carrier Peptides These deliver trace minerals like copper and manganese to the skin, where they support enzymatic processes involved in wound healing and collagen production. Copper peptides (GHK-Cu) are the most studied and have been shown to improve skin firmness and reduce fine lines.

Neurotransmitter-Inhibiting Peptides Sometimes called "Botox in a bottle" (an exaggeration), these peptides inhibit muscle contractions that cause expression lines. Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-3) is the most common. They will not replace actual Botox, but they can soften dynamic wrinkles with consistent use.

What Are Peptides?

Peptides are short chains of amino acids — the building blocks of proteins. In skincare, they function as signal molecules that tell your skin to produce more collagen, elastin, and other structural proteins. Think of them as messengers that convince your skin to behave as if it were younger.

Your skin naturally produces peptides, but production slows with age. When you apply topical peptides, they mimic these natural signals, encouraging your skin to ramp up collagen production, improve elasticity, and repair damage. Unlike retinoids, which work through a different mechanism (increasing cell turnover and collagen gene expression), peptides rarely cause irritation.